Відео

Please get on with it.

The book continues to be available August 2024 in Canada at The Camera Store. Otherwise the pdf is available online.

I was out last night in Scotland for the perseids meteor shower and was also blessed with the aurora....having watched this video prior and now paid for the download to read how to best post process ....thanks for a great piece of material. 🙂👍

Matt damon and Jigsaw giving a wonderful presentation

Nice piece of equipment but can’t justify the price. Should be half at most.

Did you have no trouble with exact registration between your lawyers? Sometimes Mine will not line up perfectly. I would suspect it’s because I don’t have such a precision click panorama head and I have to line it up. Visually with the digits on the calibrated side. Great video.

What great ball heads, the lack of support from Novoflex keeps me from buying this.

This was a great presentation! I would be interested in seeing how you handle a star tracked panorama! Thank you again!

Sorry to annoy you but I have a third question: if I buy a Laowa AF 10mm (130,4° of field) how should be the RR on a full frame body? Thanks.

What is the difference when used on full frame bodies like the A7s3 ? Thanks.

Whaaat? I did not understand at all: does this ring keep the control of the focus area or even the AUTOFOCUS ??? Thanks.

Do you realise how distracting it is to watch you read from a teleprompter? I'm considering your line of tripods, and this is really putting me off.

Awesome presentation! Looking forward to the next Nightscaper!

Great job, Tim. Thanks for that awesome handout, too.

Excellent video! Thank you!

What focal length did you use for the wide angle shot you edited near the end of the video? Thanks.

Rotimi, Marion Indiana.

Saw it in Mesa Verde National Park!

Thank you for sharing, very informative 👍

Nice video. I would like to mention what I consider the best option for solar filters. It is Baader Astrosolar PHOTO film OD 3.8. This filter allows the best resolution and is also very inexpensive when buying an 8x12" sheet to make a DIY filter. I have a thousand oaks optical full aperture solarlite polymer filter and it blocks way too much light for photography. I had very slow shutter speeds around 1/10-1/50th F10 ISO 640 when using the thousand oaks filter. The Baader astrosolar PHOTO film OD 3.8 allowed shutter speeds of 1/5000-1/6400 F10 ISO 100. I shot last Octobers eclipse handheld and got tack sharp images. You did mention a baader astrosolar Safety film filter OD 5.0. It works and is viewing safe but the baader astrosolar PHOTO film OD 3.8 blocks less light and allows much faster shutter speeds.

Great, it'd be nice if you worked on your customer service for the USA website. I submitted a question about a month ago, but still no reply.

Excellent tutorial and thanks for the shout out! Clear skies on eclipse day!

Thank you for putting together this comprehensive video. I'm heading to Arkansas in April (2024) to shoot my 1st solar eclipse. I love the diamond ring shot you show at the 1:19.25 mark but am confused about whether or not I should have the filter on to replicate that shot. You mentioned that you missed the initial diamond, but "sure did get the 2nd one" (and I completely agree - fantastic!). The last paragraph says the filter should be off: I just want to confirm that I'm reading this correctly.

❤❤️❤️👍👍👍👍👍from 🇳🇱NL

Viele gruesse aus Oklahoma. Ich freue mich Ihnen zu finden. Ich bitte um Ihr Entschuldigung beim meine schrechliche Deutsch. Leider habe Ich viewl vergesson. Ich bedanke mich!

Thanks again Novoflex! Was great putting this together for you.

"It's not complicated. It's German." (@7:38) Whenever I try to understand a German product (eg Cubase) I find it really difficult. I suspect it's a real phenomenon for English speakers, and there's some deep reason why, but I don't know enough to understand.

at 48:31 one other advantage of bellows vs the macro lens; most macro lenses are either 60 or 105 mm in focal length, so have only a 0.8-1.5 m closest focus distance, a bellows set, increases the distance between the rear element and the sensor plane, so increases close focus to ~ 1-2 " away from the front of the lens, so increases the usability of this setup, not just ONLY for macro, but allows a close focus, so the setup doesn't have to be as big, as you aren't 2-3 Metres away from your subject.

thanks your sharing

Great work Robert. A very timely presentation for me personally as I am in the research stage as to opt for a motorised or manual rig for my photography. I have clearly found the right way to go now, having watched your talk and look forward to using the rail in the field. Best wishes, Kevin

the obscene watermark in his images are entirely unnecessary and oozes insecurity.

😊

Wouldn't the importance of a flat field of focus be diminished when focus stacking is used?

Inspiring!

lease send me a link to your stem stabiliser

Wonderful! Love the details and techniques.

Perth Western Australia, not watching live

Awesome Products A++++ / interesting you have the magicball facing away from you, i turn mine -90 so the handle is in my left hand and my right hand on camera grip & shutter button. I just ordered the c 2840 triobalance, will be here on Saturday 😊

Hi, thanks for doing this. I have the gfx100s and 45-100mm GF lens. I have a macro series to do with 2-3” objects, want fast automated focus stacking. I’m confused with the options: buy the 120mm f4 Macro, 18mm or 45mm extension tubes, this bellows unit, with or without accessories like reverse ring, etc. I’d like to avoid having the camera take so many slices due to razor thin focus plane. Which solution would allow each shot a deeper focus, so Helicon software chews on less data? Does the bellows just allow higher magnification? Does it help in any way when using Fuji in-camera focus bracketing?

Not nodal point. For seamless panorama, it is the entrance pupil that must be on the rotation axis. Confusion possibly comes from cameras where only the lens rotate (Noblex, Horizon, Circut, etc); in that case the rotation axis must be on the (rear) nodal point. That mistake has been repeated on and on all over the internet.

Very nice gear: CASTEL-M; simple and nice to use with a good mechanical stability!

One tripod to rule them all

No , I beg to differ. This device is very unstable. It is is not value for money

Please watch the short videos I posted here. I'm using a C-Mount lens (25mm, parallel precision vertical lens) and an industrial microscope camera with a Sony IMX-226 sensor (I bought from China). How can I improve the quality of the photo and video I take? I'm in California. Thank you.

Is it possible to know what is the magnification value for reversing a 35mm Leica L APO lens?

How can you shoot in portrait mode once bellows is attached?

There was mention of answering my question with an email. I am wondering when I might get that.

Great video. Thanks for posting. I just shot the Perseids for my first time doing meteors. I had done most of what you instructed but needed a way to rotate so all would point to radiant. Found that in the e-book you referred to. Was good to see I did most of the other things correctly, including using Photo Pills and Starellium, but learned more about those with your video. More ppl should watch this!

Only problem: this is completely useless. The GF 120mm is corrected for 0.5x magnification, as soon as you use extension tubes or bellows the image quality tanks hard. Using this lens at such a high magnification (and stopping down while doing so) will result in a blurry distorted mess that is only partially sharp in the center and already well into diffraction. It's really too bad but with the 120mm you're better off cropping the image at 0.5x and not using any extension and stopping down to a maximum of f5.